@techreport{oai:bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp:00002006,
 author = {滝澤, 愛 and 円谷, 智子 and 佐藤, 恭子},
 month = {Mar},
 note = {本研究では、20世紀初頭にフランスで中流階級の女性を対象に出版されたパターン（型紙）付録つき婦人雑誌を基礎資料とし、服飾文化史と衣服構成学の双方から服飾と身体変化の関係について考察を行った。衣服構成学的見地からパターン製作に使用されたボディのサイズ表の数値やパターンのカッティングを分析した結果、ウエストを中心とした体型変化や衣服のゆとり量の増加が確認できた。服飾文化史的見地から雑誌掲載モデルの版画や写真資料、ファッション関連記事に基づきシルエットや装飾について検討した結果、ファッション通信欄を通して中流階級女性達がオートクチュールの動向を知り、掲載モデルや付録を利用して模倣する過程が把握できた。異国趣味の服飾要素を取り入れながら平面的でゆったりとしたシルエットへの移行が掲載モデルにも認められた。装飾はモチーフや配色で様式変化に対応しつつ、家計や生活スタイルを考慮したシンプルで扱い易い素材や技法、リフォームが紹介された。, The basic source material used in this study is women’s magazines incorporating tailoring patterns published with the target set on middle-class French women at the start of the 20th century. Adopting two approaches, namely the cultural history of costume and study of the structure of costume, we have examined the relationship between costume and physical changes. From the standpoint of the structure of costume, we have analysed the numerical values that appear in the body size charts used at the time when placing an order for the production of a particular pattern along with the pattern cuttings. I thereby discovered changes in physique centring especially on the waist and an increase in the amount of leeway afforded by the costumes. From the standpoint of cultural history in connection with costume, we studied design silhouettes and ornamentation on the basis of prints and photographs of models featured in the magazines and also on the basis of fashion-related magazine articles. This enabled us to ascertain the process whereby middle-class women became aware of trends in haute couture through the medium of fashion news columns and were able to imitate these trends through use of the models and attachments featured in the magazines. The move towards flat, leisurely silhouettes incorporating exotic costume features also became evident. One can observe how clothing adapted to stylistic change through the use of motifs and colouring. The magazines at the same time presented simple and easily mastered materials and techniques and ideas for renovation taking account of household budgets and lifestyles.},
 title = {20世紀初頭フランス・ファッションの変容 : 異国趣味、身体およびパターン、装飾},
 year = {2013}
}