{"created":"2023-05-15T13:15:35.596865+00:00","id":1971,"links":{},"metadata":{"_buckets":{"deposit":"f737262c-a1e0-485b-bd69-4de34528a148"},"_deposit":{"created_by":2,"id":"1971","owners":[2],"pid":{"revision_id":0,"type":"depid","value":"1971"},"status":"published"},"_oai":{"id":"oai:bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp:00001971","sets":["10:177:183:185"]},"author_link":["7387","7385","7390","7394","7391","7389","7388","7386","7392","7393"],"item_8_alternative_title_19":{"attribute_name":"その他のタイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_alternative_title":"The Study on Japanese Traditional Kumihimo Braiding and the Development of the Use of Native Silkworms for Raw Material of Kumihimo"}]},"item_8_alternative_title_20":{"attribute_name":"タイトル(ヨミ)","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_alternative_title":"ニホン ノ デントウ クミヒモ ノ チョウサ ケンキュウ ト コクサン マユ ニヨル クミヒモ ソザイ ノ カイハツ"}]},"item_8_biblio_info_7":{"attribute_name":"書誌情報","attribute_value_mlt":[{"bibliographicIssueDates":{"bibliographicIssueDate":"2012-03-30","bibliographicIssueDateType":"Issued"},"bibliographicPageEnd":"71","bibliographicPageStart":"58","bibliographicVolumeNumber":"2011","bibliographic_titles":[{"bibliographic_title":"服飾文化共同研究最終報告"}]}]},"item_8_description_4":{"attribute_name":"抄録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_description":"This research plans to undertake a close investigation of Japanese kumihimo braiding, from the standpoint of art history, as well as its scientific and technical investigation. The silk manufacturer today in Japan rely entirely on foreign imported silkworms and raw silk and there is a social demand to use native ones with traceable origins. This project hopes to advance the use of native silkworms and raw silk in the making kumihimo braiding of high quality.\nAbout the basic investigation on Japanese kumihimo braiding, bibliographical research was carried out. Most of the braids of the highest grade were dedicated to the Buddhist temple and Shinto shrine, therefore religiousness and spiritualism characterize the Japanese historic braids. Technically they were gradually developed to more complicated braids by connecting basic units in width and thickness. \nWe made a list of documents of the Japanese braid use in the Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum collection and examined main real documents. A round string (approximately 35cm) attracted attention because of the similarity with a string preserved inside great priest Zendo statue (thirteenth century) of the Chion-in Temple possession.\n As for the production process of the kumihimo braiding, it is divided into specialized labors. They are sericulture, filature, plying, twisting and scouring concerning the thread, and dyeing, braiding and finish by the braiding manufacturer. We received practical training in each process and recorded photograph and DVD and made samples. We also broadened our horizons in the historic techniques before the Meiji era and in the technical change of China.\n About the development of the braid material due to the domestic cocoon, we chose extra-fine 1(gokuboso 1go), platinum boy(puratina boi), spring mountain×bell month(syunrei×syougetu) as the silkworm kind that the examination intended for. We compared strength, elasticity and luster of raw silk, thrown threads and degummed threads made of each silkworm. Then we produced the obi cord of each document. As a result of the sensory evaluation, the difference of the kind was not so clear when it was the stage of the obi cord. Techniques of the obi cord are well adapted a modern technology after the Meiji era. In future the development of various uses of the braiding in which we make use of the traditional techniques of the braiding before the Meiji era is expected.","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"},{"subitem_description":"繊維から組成される服飾材料の基本構造である「織」、「組」、「編」のうち「組」はこれまで学術的蓄積が少なかった分野である。本研究の目的は、絹を素材とし、世界有数の歴史と伝統がある日本の組紐文化財について服飾史・美学美術史・科学技術的観点から調査を行い、歴史的変遷に対する理解を深め、きものの美のかなめである「帯締め」を中心とした現代の伝統組紐の技術を記録・分析し、組紐の品質・機能を向上させ、国産繭による組紐素材の開発をめざす。\n組紐文化財の基礎調査に関しては、日本の組紐に関する文献の収集、従来の研究をまとめた。最高級の組紐は寺社に奉納されたものが多く、宗教性、精神性の高さが日本の組紐の特徴となっている。技術的には、基本の組み方の単位を縦横に連結することによって、より複雑な幅・厚みのある重厚な組紐へと発展させている。文化学園服飾博館所蔵の日本関係の組紐使用の資料リストを作成し、主要な実物資料を調査した。中でも、神護寺の経帙の紐(12世紀)と推定されるものと知恩院所蔵の善導大師像(13世紀)の紐と類似性がある35cmほどの丸紐が注目された。 \n組紐の製作工程は、糸に関する養蚕・繭・製糸・合糸・撚糸・精練と、組紐製作者による染色・組み・仕上げからなり、分業化されている。各工程を研修し、写真やDVDに記録し、試料を作成した。明治以前の技術や源流の中国の技術変遷などにも視野を広げ、歴史的技術を見直す手がかりとした。\n国産繭による組紐素材の開発に関しては、試験の対象とする蚕品種として、極細1号、プラチナボーイ、春嶺×鐘月を選定した。生糸、撚糸、精練後などの各蚕種の強度・震度・光沢などを比較した。各試料の帯締めを製作し官能評価を行った結果、製品の段階になると品種の差はあまり明確ではなかった。また精練・絹鳴りの試験や小石丸や外国産の生糸などとの比較も試みた。帯締めの技術は明治以降の近代的な技術によく適応しており、普通品種の繭で十分対応できる。これからの課題として、明治以前の組紐の伝統的な技術も生かした、組紐の多様な用途の開発が望まれる。","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"}]},"item_8_full_name_2":{"attribute_name":"著者(ヨミ)","attribute_value_mlt":[{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7390","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"ドウミョウ, ミホコ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7391","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"シミズ, シゲト"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7392","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"アライ, ヤヨイ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7393","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"シムラ, アキラ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7394","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"ヨシダ, マサコ"}]}]},"item_8_subject_17":{"attribute_name":"日本十進分類法","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_subject":"753.3","subitem_subject_scheme":"NDC"}]},"item_8_text_39":{"attribute_name":"その他の寄与者","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_text_value":"Domyo, Mihoko"},{"subitem_text_value":"Shimizu, Shigeto"},{"subitem_text_value":"Arai, Yayoi"},{"subitem_text_value":"Shimura, Akira"},{"subitem_text_value":"Yoshida, Masako"},{"subitem_text_value":"文化学園大学 文化ファッション研究機構, 服飾文化共同研究拠点、文化ファッション研究機構、文化学園大学"},{"subitem_text_value":"蚕糸科学研究所, 服飾文化共同研究拠点、文化ファッション研究機構、文化学園大学"},{"subitem_text_value":"文化学園大学 文化ファッション研究機構, 服飾文化共同研究拠点、文化ファッション研究機構、文化学園大学"},{"subitem_text_value":"勝山織物株式会社絹織製作研究所, 服飾文化共同研究拠点、文化ファッション研究機構、文化学園大学"},{"subitem_text_value":"京都市立芸術大学美術学部, 服飾文化共同研究拠点、文化ファッション研究機構、文化学園大学"},{"subitem_text_value":"Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University, Joint Research Center for Fashion and Clothing Culture Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University"},{"subitem_text_value":"Silk Science Research Institute, Joint Research Center for Fashion and Clothing Culture Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University"},{"subitem_text_value":"Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University, Joint Research Center for Fashion and Clothing Culture Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University"},{"subitem_text_value":"Silk Fabric Research Institute, Katsuyama Textile Corporation, Joint Research Center for Fashion and Clothing Culture Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University"},{"subitem_text_value":"Faculty of Fine Arts, Kyoto City University of Arts, Joint Research Center for Fashion and Clothing Culture Bunka Fashion Research Institute, Bunka Gakuen University"}]},"item_8_text_6":{"attribute_name":"引用","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_text_value":"服飾文化共同研究最終報告 2011. (2012-03) pp.58-71"}]},"item_8_version_type_16":{"attribute_name":"著者版フラグ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_version_resource":"http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85","subitem_version_type":"VoR"}]},"item_creator":{"attribute_name":"著者","attribute_type":"creator","attribute_value_mlt":[{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"道明, 三保子"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7385","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"清水, 重人"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7386","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"荒井, やよい"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7387","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"志村, 明"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7388","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"吉田, 雅子"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7389","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]}]},"item_files":{"attribute_name":"ファイル情報","attribute_type":"file","attribute_value_mlt":[{"accessrole":"open_date","date":[{"dateType":"Available","dateValue":"2020-06-23"}],"displaytype":"detail","filename":"011080211_07.pdf","filesize":[{"value":"1.2 MB"}],"format":"application/pdf","licensetype":"license_note","mimetype":"application/pdf","url":{"label":"011080211_07.pdf","url":"https://bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/1971/files/011080211_07.pdf"},"version_id":"e3be3211-e37c-436c-9a1d-db8dc438c096"}]},"item_language":{"attribute_name":"言語","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_language":"jpn"}]},"item_resource_type":{"attribute_name":"資源タイプ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"resourcetype":"research report","resourceuri":"http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_18ws"}]},"item_title":"日本の伝統組紐の調査研究と国産繭による組紐素材の開発","item_titles":{"attribute_name":"タイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_title":"日本の伝統組紐の調査研究と国産繭による組紐素材の開発"}]},"item_type_id":"8","owner":"2","path":["185"],"pubdate":{"attribute_name":"公開日","attribute_value":"2012-05-25"},"publish_date":"2012-05-25","publish_status":"0","recid":"1971","relation_version_is_last":true,"title":["日本の伝統組紐の調査研究と国産繭による組紐素材の開発"],"weko_creator_id":"2","weko_shared_id":2},"updated":"2023-05-15T13:50:20.049019+00:00"}