{"created":"2023-05-15T13:15:35.008489+00:00","id":1962,"links":{},"metadata":{"_buckets":{"deposit":"ba953b9f-322d-4c0d-b72a-b1fa95058536"},"_deposit":{"created_by":2,"id":"1962","owners":[2],"pid":{"revision_id":0,"type":"depid","value":"1962"},"status":"published"},"_oai":{"id":"oai:bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp:00001962","sets":["10:177:183:184"]},"author_link":["7293","7286","7290","7285","7282","7294","7296","7289","7287","7283","7288","7284","7292","7295","7291"],"item_8_alternative_title_19":{"attribute_name":"その他のタイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_alternative_title":"On the Relation Between the Designing Process and the Post-Processing of Couture Maison in Milan Influence That Manufacturing Process of Pret-A-Porter Exerts on Product Design"}]},"item_8_alternative_title_20":{"attribute_name":"タイトル（ヨミ）","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_alternative_title":"ミラノ ノ クチュール メゾン ノ セッケイ カテイ ト アトコウテイ ノ カンケイ ニ ツイテ プレタポルテ ノ セイゾウ コウテイ ガ セイヒン セッケイ ニ オヨボス エイキョウ"}]},"item_8_biblio_info_7":{"attribute_name":"書誌情報","attribute_value_mlt":[{"bibliographicIssueDates":{"bibliographicIssueDate":"2012","bibliographicIssueDateType":"Issued"},"bibliographicPageEnd":"36","bibliographicPageStart":"1","bibliographicVolumeNumber":"2010 (詳細版)","bibliographic_titles":[{"bibliographic_title":"服飾文化共同研究最終報告(詳細版)"}]}]},"item_8_description_4":{"attribute_name":"抄録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_description":"The Japanese fashion business has a low international presence. While it had been skillful in the import and licensing businesses, these businesses do not involve schemes for selling fashion goods on the global market through proactive entrepreneurial creativity. For this reason, one of the research themes of this study is to clarify the features of the design and manufacturing processes in a Milan fashion house (couture-maison) built on a high level of creativity. The following findings were made: A chief designer does a creative first design (initiation). Workers in the post-processing phase provide positive support for the chief's design. They also carry out proactive interpretation of specifications. The manufacturing process is executed under this situation. Next, reverse engineering was conducted for a denim suit from a famous fashion house. The Chief Designer daringly used a special cloth to achieve the targeted silhouette. This decision placed restrictions on the Chief’s first design. The Chief was restricted by the manufacturing process, which takes place after the first design. In the case of this denim suit, the sewn product was supplied to the washing process. Unanticipated results often occur in this process. The silhouette that the Chief Designer attempted to realize depends on this process's results. However, the Chief cannot control directly the post-processing that takes place after the studio section is finished. In fact, these experimental results assume that the Chief must design within the range of properties that post-processing can follow. Additionally, a Process Experiment was conducted in Milan and Tokyo. In this experiment, we asked a Fashion Designer to play the role of the chief designer in a fashion house. She designed a (fashion) product to be sold to buyers at an exhibition (on the runway during Fashion Week). The Pattern-Maker makes specifications and a prototype according to the Designer's instructions, like the chief modelist of the atelier section in a fashion house. The production prototype is produced by each experiment subject (manufacturing process company) in Milan and Tokyo based on the specifications and prototypes. The Designer and the Pattern-Maker compare the subjects' production prototypes. From the results of this experiment, this subject in Japan can be judged to understand the demands of the fashion house (design specifications). In a word, mass production in line with the intentions of the fashion house is possible. As a result, if the fashion business of Japan achieves globalization as well as the prêt-a-porter business of a luxury brand fashion house, then it can be presumed that the true obstruction factor was in the flaws of the first design","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"},{"subitem_description":"日本のファッションビジネスの国際プレゼンスは低い。インポートやライセンスは得意だったが、事業者の積極的創造によるファッションを世界市場において販売するスキームを持たない。そこでリサーチテーマのひとつに高い創造意欲をもつミラノのメゾン（couture-maison）の設計製造工程の特徴の解明を掲げた。そして、以下のことが判明した。設計主務者（stilista，couturier，creative-director）の創造的な第1次設計（イニシエーション）、後工程の作業者らによる設計主務者の設計に対する積極的支持、仕様書類（specifications）に対する好意的解釈が存在し、そのうえで製造工程が稼動する。ついで、著名メゾンのデニムスーツをリバースエンジニアリング（解体・再現）した。設計主務者は狙ったシルエットを実現するために、あえて特殊な生地（材料）を用いた。この決定は設計主務者の一次設計を制約する。設計主務者は一次設計の後に続く製造工程に制約される。このデニムの場合、縫製された製品は洗い加工に供される。この工程では予期しない結果が起きることが多い。設計主務者が実現しようとするシルエットはこの結果に依存する。しかしながら、設計主務者はstudio部門以後の後工程を直接に制御できない。この実験結果は、設計主務者が事実上後工程がフォローできる範囲で設計せざるを得ないであろうことを推定させる。さらに、工程実験をミラノと東京で実施した。あるファッション設計者にメゾンの設計主務者のように設計する役割を依頼した。彼女は、展示会（ファッションウィークのランウェイ）でバイヤーに販売する製品（ファッション）を設計する。パターンメーカーはデザイナーの指示によりメゾンのアトリエ部門の上席モデリスタのように仕様書類と試作品（prototype）を作成する。その仕様書類と試作品にもとづき、ミラノと東京の各被験者（製造工程を有する会社）は量産見本（production prototype）を制作する。デザイナーとパターンメーカーは両被験者の量産見本を比較する。東京の被験者はミラノの被験者のようにメゾンの要求を理解できるであろうか。この実験によれば、日本の被験者（製造工程会社）はその要求（仕様書類）を理解できた。つまり被験者はメゾンの期待に応じた製造が可能である。また、ミラノ市場向けにメゾンレベルのプレタポルテを量産できる可能性がある。以上から、メゾンの設計主務者のプレタポルテ設計はstudio部門の後に続く製造工程の影響を受容しており（その意味ではきわめて合理的）、また、仮に日本のファッションビジネスがラグジュアリブランドのメゾンのプレタポルテ事業と同様に国際化を達成するならば、真の阻害要因は１次設計の欠如にあると推定できる。","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"}]},"item_8_full_name_2":{"attribute_name":"著者(ヨミ)","attribute_value_mlt":[{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7287","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"オオタニ, ツヨシ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7288","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"イケダ, カズコ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7289","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"イサキ, ハルコ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7290","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"ショウダ, ヤスヒロ"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7291","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"モリカワ, ヒデアキ"}]}]},"item_8_full_name_3":{"attribute_name":"著者別名","attribute_value_mlt":[{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7292","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"Otani, Tsuyoshi"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7293","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"Ikeda, Kazuko"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7294","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"Isaki, Haruko"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7295","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"Syoda, Yasuhiro"}]},{"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7296","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}],"names":[{"name":"Morikawa, Hideaki"}]}]},"item_8_subject_17":{"attribute_name":"日本十進分類法","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_subject":"589.2","subitem_subject_scheme":"NDC"}]},"item_8_text_39":{"attribute_name":"その他の寄与者","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_text_value":"信州大学繊維学部"},{"subitem_text_value":"文化女子大学服装学部"},{"subitem_text_value":"レナウン㈱"},{"subitem_text_value":"文化女子大学服装学部"},{"subitem_text_value":"信州大学繊維学部"},{"subitem_text_value":"Faculty of Textile Science & Technology, Shinshu University"},{"subitem_text_value":"Faculty of Clothing Science, Bunka Women’s University"},{"subitem_text_value":"RENOWN Incorporated"},{"subitem_text_value":"Faculty of Clothing Science, Bunka Women’s University"},{"subitem_text_value":"Faculty of Textile Science & Technology, Shinshu University"}]},"item_8_text_6":{"attribute_name":"引用","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_text_value":"服飾文化共同研究最終報告(詳細版) 2010 (2012)"}]},"item_8_version_type_16":{"attribute_name":"著者版フラグ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_version_resource":"http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85","subitem_version_type":"VoR"}]},"item_creator":{"attribute_name":"著者","attribute_type":"creator","attribute_value_mlt":[{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"大谷, 毅"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7282","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"池田, 和子"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7283","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"伊崎, 晴子"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7284","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"正田, 康博"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7285","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"森川, 英明"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{"nameIdentifier":"7286","nameIdentifierScheme":"WEKO"}]}]},"item_files":{"attribute_name":"ファイル情報","attribute_type":"file","attribute_value_mlt":[{"accessrole":"open_date","date":[{"dateType":"Available","dateValue":"2020-06-23"}],"displaytype":"detail","filename":"011080210_29.pdf","filesize":[{"value":"1.4 MB"}],"format":"application/pdf","licensetype":"license_note","mimetype":"application/pdf","url":{"label":"011080210_29.pdf","url":"https://bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/1962/files/011080210_29.pdf"},"version_id":"048fbdf8-a6e5-41f8-b37c-7fac3f3c274d"}]},"item_language":{"attribute_name":"言語","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_language":"jpn"}]},"item_resource_type":{"attribute_name":"資源タイプ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"resourcetype":"research report","resourceuri":"http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_18ws"}]},"item_title":"ミラノのクチュールメゾンの設計過程と後工程の関係について プレタポルテの製造工程が製品設計に及ぼす影響","item_titles":{"attribute_name":"タイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_title":"ミラノのクチュールメゾンの設計過程と後工程の関係について プレタポルテの製造工程が製品設計に及ぼす影響"}]},"item_type_id":"8","owner":"2","path":["184"],"pubdate":{"attribute_name":"公開日","attribute_value":"2012-09-15"},"publish_date":"2012-09-15","publish_status":"0","recid":"1962","relation_version_is_last":true,"title":["ミラノのクチュールメゾンの設計過程と後工程の関係について プレタポルテの製造工程が製品設計に及ぼす影響"],"weko_creator_id":"2","weko_shared_id":2},"updated":"2023-05-15T13:50:48.060249+00:00"}