@techreport{oai:bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp:00001959,
 author = {糸林, 誉史 and 林, 在圭 and 高田, 知和},
 month = {Mar},
 note = {In this study, we focused on efforts to revive Asian traditional textile industries that underwent a decline and have become obsolete amidst cultural modernization. In particular, we compared the revival initiatives for folk clothing industries in Japan, South Korea, and Malaysia, whose governments have shown strong support for reviving these industries. First, we looked at the case of the Yuntanza Hanaui textile from Okinawa, Japan. Yuntanza Hanaui textiles were traditionally woven at Yomitan Village, Nakagami District, in Okinawa Prefecture during the early period, but weaving stopped in the beginning of the 20th century. In 1960, Yomitan Village, through its economic development plans, initiated efforts to revive the industry. Women villagers were the ones involved in actual production and revival of Yuntanza Hanaui textile, but the government, aiming to make it a local specialty craft, established the Traditional Craft Center and put up three workshop studios in different locations around the village. The strong leadership and financial support provided by the local government were instrumental in reviving this important traditional folk clothing industry. Next we studied the case of the Hansan mosi ramie fabric from Hansan in Seocheon-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, South Korea. Hansan mosi is an elegant fabric for summer apparel and was traditionally produced mainly in Hansan in the whole Seocheon-gun area. With the introduction and spread of the use of synthetic fibers, however, areas for growing ramie were greatly reduced, and the Hansan mosi fabric industry deteriorated. In the middle of the 1980s, however, as part of their initiatives in restoring cultural traditions, the national and the local Seocheon governments introduced programs on preserving and continuing the production of Hansan mosi. In the 1990s, they established the Hansan Mosi Fabric Hall, and in 2000, they organized an agency for globally promoting Hansan mosi fabric. Finally, we studied the case of the kain songket fabric produced along the Terengganu River in Malaysia. Until around 1920, silk fabrics, mainly kain limar, were produced in Kuala Terengganu. Production of silk fabrics was affected by the Second World War and eventually declined with the importation of cotton fabric. Under Malaysia's new economic policy implemented in the 1970s, the Malaysian Handicraft Development Corporation (MHDC) introduced the use of kain songket, which was traditionally used as ceremonial cloth. From the mid-1970s, MHDC initiated reforms to restructure the raw materials monopoly brought about by commercial capitalism, to streamline the traditional worker-employment system, and to upgrade the conventional product-distribution system. These efforts encouraged the growth of privately owned and independent textile businesses and led to the expansion of the handicraft industry, 本研究は、アジア諸地域における「民俗服飾」が、近代化のなかで消滅や衰微に瀕していたのを復興させてゆく過程に着目し、それを伝統的織物業を事例に明らかにしたものである。その際、特に行政の強い影響と支援の下での復興を、日本、韓国、マレーシアを比較して明らかにした。日本では沖縄の「読谷山花織」を事例に論じた。沖縄県中頭郡読谷村でかつて織られていた「読谷山花織」は20世紀に入ると全く織られなくなっていたが、1960年代に、村の経済振興計画のなかで復興事業が企画・実行された。その際、技術の復興と実際の生産は主に女性が行ったが、それを村の伝統工芸品として特産化していくためには伝統工芸総合センターの建設や村内三ヶ所への工房の設置など、行政からの財政支援と村の強力なリーダーシップが大きな意義を持っていた。韓国の事例としては、忠清南道舒川郡韓山面の「韓山モシ」を取り上げた。「韓山モシ」は韓山を中心とした舒川郡一帯で生産されていた夏用の高貴な生地であったが、1960年代以降の化学繊維の導入・普及によって苧の栽培面積も「韓山モシ」も壊滅的状況に追い込まれた。しかし1980年代半ばから伝統文化復興の一環として、地方自治体の舒川郡や国が「韓山モシ」の保存・継承のために力を注ぎ、1990年代には韓山モシ館を建設し、さらに2000年代に入っては韓山モシ世界化事業団を組織化してその復興に努めた。他方、マレーシアの事例はトレンガヌ州の「カイン・ソンケッ」である。クアラトレンガヌでは1920年頃まで「カイン・リマール」を中心に絹織物を生産していたが、第二次世界大戦の影響や綿織物の輸入により衰退した。しかし1970年代の新経済政策（NEP）下において、マレーシア工芸開発公社（MHDC）の主導のもとに登場したのが儀礼布であった「カイン・ソンケッ」であった。工芸開発公社は、1970年代半ばから商業資本による原材料の独占や慣習的な雇用や流通制度を再編し、自営の織物工を育成して工芸産業を発展させた。},
 title = {野良着の生活史 : 民俗服飾の近代化と民族衣装の創出に関する学際的比較研究},
 year = {2011}
}