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oai:bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp:00000141 2023-05-15T14:12:54Z 1:45

ジャケットパターン設計因子と着用感の関係(第１報) : 身幅，脇幅，胸幅，背幅の変化と着用感 Relations Between Drafting Factors of Jacket Pattern and Wearing Feeling of Clothing Part 1: Effect of the Change of Pattern Size - Width Across Body, Width Across Side Panel, Width Across Chest and Width Across Back - on the Wearing Feeling of Clothing ジャケット パターン セッケイ インシ ト チャクヨウカン ノ カンケイ ダイ１ポウ : ミハバ ワキハバ ムネハバ セハバ ノ ヘンカ ト チャクヨウカン 三吉, 満智子 広川, 妙子 593.3 clothing clothing pressure drafting factor jacket pattern sensory test wearing feeling width across back width across body width across chest width across side panel 本研究では，セミフィットタイプ基本ジャケットパターンの身幅，脇幅，胸幅，背幅に各3水準の変化を与え，計11着の実験服を製作して着用官能検査を行った.変化量は，ジャケット出来上がり身幅で±3cmとし，ジャケットフォルムが一見して差異のないものと見られる範囲とした. 結果として次のことが明らかとなった. 1 )静立時着用感では，身幅中，胸幅小が最も「ちょうどよい」に近い評価であったが，動作時着用感では身幅大の群が部分圧感も少なく全体感としても動きやすいという評価であった. 2) 要因水準聞の分散分析検定結果では静立時，動作時共に，身幅要因群では明らかに有意差が見られ，胸幅，背幅要因群では両上肢前挙45° の動作時に有意差があった.またこれによって，3水準の範囲では胸幅は小の方向に，背幅は大の方向に動作適応性があることが明らかになった. 3)官能量とパターン各部寸法との相関分析結果では，静立時，動作時共に身幅，脇幅，袖幅，アームホール幅，およびパネルライン背幅+アームホール幅等が官能量との間に高い相関を示した. A total of eleven samples of standard jacket of semi fit type were made by varying the pattern size : width across body (W.BO), width across side panel (W.S.P.)　width　across chest (W.C.), width across back (W.BA.) each three levels. The amount of variance is designed to be +/-3cm of the out line W.BO. of jackets. The jacket's from has little difference at first glance. A wearing sensory test of the jackets has been conducted both in stationary and moving conditions. Followings are test resuls. 1) In the stationary standing posture, wear feeling of the jacket with middle size of W.BO. and with the small size of W.C. has been evaluated as nearly "just fit". In the moving condition，a group of large W.BO. has been evaluated as "easy to move" as a whole with a little localized clothing pressure. 2) An analysis of variance among the factor levels has revealed a significant differece in W.BO. in both stationary standing posture and moving condition. A significant differeces have been found among the levels of W.C. and W.BA. in the "arising position of upper limbs by 45°". These results have shown that less W.C. and more W.BA. tends to be easy in motion. 3)"A correlation analysis between sensation intensity and each pattem dimension has revealed that W.BO., W.S.P., width across sleeve，width across arm hole (W.A.H.), and total of W.BA. at the top of panel line and W.A.H. have a high correlation with sensation intensity both in stationary standing posture and in moving condition. 報文 1995-12-25 jpn journal article http://hdl.handle.net/10457/2059 https://bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp/records/141 AN00131775 00372072 繊維製品消費科学 12 47 56 https://bunka.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/141/files/00101_000078.pdf application/pdf 1.1 MB 2020-06-22